Balcony Showing Stucco Damage
Fort Collins, CO

Stucco Inspections & Defects

As a Home Inspector Certified in Stucco Inspections and moisture analysis for 6 years, I’ve seen hundreds of stucco clad homes with a multitude of defects in Fort Collins, Longmont, and other towns and cities up and down the Front Range of Northern Colorado.

In the majority of cases these defects result in moisture intrusion and damage to the substrate and/or framing.

Types of Stucco Systems

95% of the residential stucco in Northern Colorado is either:

• a “barrier” type system
• a “drainage” type system

Most EIFS (Exterior Insulation Finish System) stucco systems are the “barrier” type, which means that what you see is the primary weather barrier. When moisture enters behind the stucco, it becomes trapped and rots any moisture sensitive materials. Typically, the older the EIFS stucco is the more issues are discovered.

By far, the most important component of a barrier system is the sealant joints around all penetrations, including windows, doors and surface mounted fixtures. Proper flashings at roof/wall interfaces, decks and columns prevent moisture intrusion at those locations.

Traditional stucco, or 3 coat stucco is typically a “drainage” type, which means that if moisture enters behind the stucco, it hits a drainage plane, and drips out the bottom through a weep screed. The air space behind the stucco “breathes”.

“One coat” or “Hard coat” stucco can be either a barrier, or drainage type system. Most I see have no drainage plane, or weep screeds, at the bottom. When there is no visible gap between the water proofing and the stucco, then you have a barrier system without the benefit of exterior insulation.

Repairing Damaged Stucco Around Window – Longmont, CO

When Requirements Aren’t Met

All types of systems have required protection of the moisture sensitive substrate, prior to stucco application. Most have voids in this protection, particularly around windows, doors, roof/wall interfaces, deck ledger boards and deck support columns.

Older EIFS systems were often attached directly to the moisture sensitive substrate and often result in several areas of rot and microbial growth, inside the wall cavity.

Inspecting Stucco for Defects

Inspection methods include invasive probing to determine:

• the actual moisture content at the substrate
• the condition of the substrate

Be aware that infrared thermography has major limitations in detecting moisture behind an insulating barrier and cannot detect damaged substrate from prior leaks that are now dry.

Prevention is the Best Cure

The bottom line is that you need to maintain the entire stucco system, and as always THINK LIKE A DRIP.

Consider the fact that 99% of Home owner insurance policies completely exclude any coverage for moisture related damage.

You’re on your own when it comes to stucco problems and repair. Stucco maintenance is your best protection.

If you are in Fort Collins, Longmont, or surrounding areas, wanting to buy or sell a home and are concerned about the stucco, contact us for a home inspection (970) 567-7393.

In 2,000 inspections, over the last 8 years, I find one common defect that must be corrected on at least portions of 99% of those homes, which is negative grading.

Aside from immediate safety hazards, this condition is the most important to correct than any other, for several reasons.

Bad: Ineffective downspout

99% of foundation issues are related to water. Allowing water to pond near the foundation will saturate the soils and can create pressure that pushes the foundation walls inward. Among other issues are moisture intrusion into the basement/crawlspace and moisture eroding the bearing under concrete slabs allowing them to drop.

Positive Grading

Bad: Slope towards the foundation

When the contractor excavated for your foundation, they over-dug by several feet to allow working room to build the foundation. Once completed, they back-filled the void, creating a positive grade (slope) away from the foundation. This disturbed back-fill continues to settle and compact for 100’s of years. Adding moisture to this loose soil accelerates the compaction process.

Bad: Plants near the foundation

As a Builder of custom homes, I recall notes on every engineered foundation drawing that clearly stated “do not plant anything within 3 feet of the foundation and always maintain a positive slope away from the foundation”. The majority of homes that I inspect have trees, bushes, shrubs and/or grass planted right next to the foundation, all of which need WATER, which causes the affected grading to sink a little each year. Add to this, those pesky gutter downspout extensions that invariably remain in the “UP” position or are missing altogether. Never instal

l irrigation next to the foundation as subsurface fittings likely will eventually leak.

What to Do about Negative Grading

Bad: Watering near the foundation

So if you discover areas of negative grading around your home, where the ground is sloping towards your house, pull back any landscaping materials and any fabric, add dirt or structural fill material to create a positive slope away from the foundation for several feet, being careful to keep soil away from the bottom edge of siding materials, then re-install the fabric and landscape materials. Simply adding mulch or rock will not correct the condition, as water will pond under these materials. Be sure to check under decks, as water can pond there also. In general, the newer the home, the more often you will have to inspect and correct areas of sinking soils around your home.

If a flat site will not allow for positive grading, then dig down and create a swale, or French drain, that will divert water away from the foundation.

Most people understand the need to prevent moisture intrusion, whether it be your roof, windows or for example, you car. By keeping the soils near your home dry, even in a rainstorm, you can prevent a host of problems. Remember, THINK LIKE A DRIP.